It's come a long way baby in 10 years, but how does the latest Yamaha R1 rate against a year-old used model?
It’s hard to believe Yamaha's R1 has been around for almost 10 years. It's changed plenty during that time, and the latest bike is so much different to the first fire breather that shook the market back in 1998. Indeed, you could say the only similarity between the two is the name. But it's the differences between this, and last year's models that we're examining here to discover whether the new bike is worth shelling out for.
On paper at least you'd say it must be. Lots of electronic engine trickery, such as fly-by-wire throttle and variable Length inlet trumpet, along with a change from a 20 back to a 16-valve head, help to influence the bike's revised engine character and extra power. New suspension, brakes and chassis geometry suggest it probably flies round corners better too.
But to see if the changes to the 2007 bike add up to any real advantage, Dave the 'Goat' and I went for some tow-flying along the Fosse Way, running up from Cirencester, to Leicester and the Midlands. It confirmed many things about the new model - it's a very fast, sorted and highly capable bit of kit that would be very hard to beat.
Damned wonderful
It had only been a few weeks since I'd enjoyed the Yam in Super Bike’s 1000s group test, and the thrill of riding it again made me a very happy chappie. Sometimes you have to wonder just how bike-builders can manage to make something so damned wonderful. And before I jumped on the 2006-spec bike, I'd almost made up my mind about the latest version's superiority. But though spec sheets say one thing with their definitive data, the feeling from your arse can sometimes tell a very different story. And I was reminded of that within a few minutes on the old bike.
It's only fair to point out at this stage that the older version of the bike we tried had led a very good Life - something we could vouch for with some authority as its history is very well known to us. It was nothing short of a fluke that the example we picked up from George White's new and huge showroom in Swindon turned out to be none other than our esteemed editor's Long term mount from last year.
The R1 he'd cherished and much modified during the course of 2006 has been pretty much returned to standard. But, and it's a very important but, a couple of changes he'd made turned out to make the old bike every bit as impressive as the new one - and significantly different to ride to a stock bike.
More power
First off, Kenny lowered the overall gearing of the bike by fitting a two-tooth larger rear sprocket. It's a very cheap and simple, yet highly effective mod, and one we often recommend to owners of a variety of different bikes to improve their general zip. In the case of the R1, it improved the way the bike accelerated quite significantly.
The new bike's engine has a bit more power everywhere. It it also has a couple of noticeable steps in its power curve. But the beauty of the older bike's lowered gearing is that it makes it zippier and much more of a top-gear bike than the new one.
Knocking it down a gear or two to overtake or to get going a bit feet more promptly, is needed far less often, making life all, the more relaxing. Combined with a slightly softer and less urgent drive, the newer engine doesn’t feel as strong below 4,000rpm, while the extra zip of the older bike was more than welcome on a regular basis. The old engine also felt rather smoother than the new motor.
"The new bike's engine has a bit more power everywhere, It also has a couple of significant steps in its power curve”
The older, 20-valve power plant has a more linear increase of power too, though whether you think this is an advantage may well depend on your preferences. For more civilised and well-mannered drive, the older motor gets the nod, but for a more exciting ride the sixteen-valver is the one to go for. Power steps at 8,000rpm and 11000rpm make the new engine feet as though it's got a lot more than the 15bhp extra that our dyno tests say it has. A midrange hike in torque makes the newer bike a lot more prone to wheelying. Again, whether that floats or sinks your boat is up to you. Personally, I liked the control offered by the old engine, but would admit that it wasn't quite as much fun to cane as the new 'un. Though it should be noted that both engines are blinders, generating huge speed in a jiff with a fair dose of usability chucked in for good measure.
Engine and gearbox
The R1's engine is very strong and reliable and faults with it are rare. As tong as the bike has a good service history, you should expect plenty of strong faithful service.
There was a recall for a problem with the throttle position sensor that resulted in the motor cutting out at tickover. The problem affects many bikes, but manifests itself infrequently. Check to see if there's a pop mark above the 'R' on the chassis number indicating the warranty work has been done. If not, see your dealer and he'll arrange for it to be sorted.
The EXUP valve should be OK as long as the bike has had a thorough PDI and been serviced regularly. Otherwise it's a matter of time before it begins to seize. Check for a whirring sound when the ignition is turned on to indicate it's revolving freely.
Clutches can slip if abused. But more common is clutch drag caused by the packing grease applied at the factory fouling the plates and preventing them sliding home fully. Cleaning out the clutch assembly will solve the issue - dealers are obliged to sort the problem if the bike's still under warranty.
The rear suspension linkage can sound squeaky if the grease has melted due to the proximity of the exhaust pipe. And the wiring harness that runs over the radiator can chafe through and cause the bike not to start. If you use the bike for track days, It will burn some oil. Check it regularly.
Service intervals are every 6000 miles with valves only needing checks every 24,000. Working on the bike at home is a bit fiddly and jobs such as changing the plugs and setting the balance of the throttle bodies shouldn't be tackled without good tools and mechanical knowledge.
Chassis
The overall condition is great guide to how well the bike’s been looked after. A year-old R1 that’s had a good life should be in nothing short of mint condition, and it would be unusual for its mileage to exceed 5,000.
Look carefully for crash, damage, broken bodywork and scuffed levers and footpegs are giveaways. The Yamaha is a fast bike bought by fast riders who crash occasionally, and by riders who think they’re fast but can be overwhelmed by the bike’s speed. A fair few Yamahas have been raced too. Check the tell-tale signs; drilled plugs, scratched wheel rims and mint, unused bodywork. Head races should also be checked for notchiness, and while you’re at it check the run-out of the front wheel. Repeated wheelies, especially botched ones, cause damage.
Brakes will bind if neglected, and lose their performance. If looked after, they should be sharp and strong. Genuine pads extend disc life
Meanwhile, a taller double bubble screen makes life at higher speeds more bearable.
Evenly matched
Another mod that drastically attered the way the older bike rode was the fitment of a set of Michelin Pilot Power 2CT tyres. They transformed the older bike's handling. That’s not to say there's anything wrong with the Pirelli Diablo Corsas fitted to the new bike - they offer an abundance of grip. But the sharper profile of the Michelins made the old bike feet much more flickable, giving the impression of a much racier chassis geometry. It almost made the fact that it's 4kgs lighter than the new bike (probably down to stricter emissions controls) noticeable. Without those tyres, the older model was always considered one of the more comfortable litre sports bikes, with its lower, softer seat and stable road handling.
The behaviour of the rest of the bike's chassis was more evenly matched. And though there are claimed and visually apparent differences with the 2007 bike's brakes and suspension, features such as the new R1's tighter and smatter discs gripped by six-piston radial calipers, and the rear shock's high and tow speed compression damping adjusters, didn't make as much of a difference. You may well be able to feet an improvement if you tested the bikes back-to-back on a track. But on the road, even riding in a spirited manner, it's hard to tell.
It's a similar story with the riding positions, though the new bike does place the rider into a little more of a sporty stance. This is thanks to a tatter seat height that actually makes the bike feel as though it’s got lower bars - which it hasn't. You can argue that more weight over the front will give a slight advantage in front end grip, although this will eventually be offset by a bit more pain in the wrists on a longer run.
"A midrange hike in torque makes the newer bike a lot more prone to wheelying”
Styling-wise, there’s little to choose from the pair. They're both great lookers with good build quality. They also have the instantly- identifiable R1 silhouette that few would argue is of an award-winning standard, capable of matching a lot of stuff from the accepted style kings, the Italians.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
This 2006 R1 hasn't really suffered too much in the way of abuse in its short life. These bikes are bought by a variety of people who usually don't do much more than 2-3000 miles a year and generally look after their bikes. They're popular so there are plenty to choose from. Bearing that in mind, you don't need to buy anything that hasn't been loved and cherished by its owner. Check over bikes you're interested in carefully, and most should still be covered by the manufacturer's warranty. It's a buyer's market.
THE FINAL ANALYSIS
As our test proves, the 'superiority' of the new R1 can be very much reduced by a few well-judged alterations to the older model. There's no doubt that the 2007 bike's engine has more power than last year's. Delivery isn't quite as strong right at the bottom, and the steps in the power won't be everyone's mug of PG. But we know from experience that with standard gearing the 2006 model suffered here too. By lowering the gearing of the old bike the motor is more usable, and gear changes become far less frequent. So if you're buying the 2007 bike, we recommend you do the same. The bottom line is both bikes are capable of propelling you along at some very serious speeds.
Handling-wise, the change to Pilot Power 2CT rubber on the older bike made a difference to the way it could be chucked about compared with the Pirelli-shod newer model. Most recent R1s are often softly sprung on standard settings, so adding a touch more rebound helps the bike handle the roads far better, whichever model. Elsewhere, the differences between the two bikes are harder to feet unless you take things nearer the limit. But it's safe to say that on the same rubber, you'll find the new bike slightly quicker steering and generally a tad less comfy over distances.
Of course, having the latest and greatest bike gives you better bragging rights down the boozer. As it is, buying a used 2006-spec model isn't a bad idea. Pick a good 'un and you'll be well chuffed, especially with the potential saving of between euro2,000 - 2,500 over a new one.
SPECIFICATION
2006 YZF-R1
Engine:
Type: I/c, 20v, 4 cylinder in-line DOHC
Displacement : 998cc
Bore x Stroke: 77x53.6mm
Compression: 11.8:1
Carburation: Mikuni EFI, 38mm throttle bodies
Gearbox: 6-speed, chain
Power: 147bhp@11,300rpm
Torque: 79lb ft @ 8,400rpm
Cycle Parts
Chassis : Aluminium Deltabox twin-spar
Suspension:
(Front) 43mm USD forks, fully adjustable
(Rear) rising-rate monoshock, fully adjustable
Brakes:
(Front) twin 320mm discs, 4 piston caliper
(Rear) 220mm disc, single piston caliper
Wheels/Tyres:
Cast Aluminium / Michelin Pilot Power 2CT
(Front) 120/70 17
(Rear) 190/50 17
Rake/Trail : 24 degree/97mm
Wheelbase: 1,395mm
Capacity: 18 liters (3.96gal)
Dry weight: 173kg (381lb)
2007 YZF-R1
Engine:
Type: I/c, 16v, 4 cylinder in-line DOHC
Displacement : 998cc
Bore x Stroke: 77x53.6mm
Compression: 12.7:1
Carburation: Mikuni EFI, 45mm throttle bodies
Gearbox: 6-speed, chain
Power: 162bhp@12,000rpm
Torque: 78lb ft @ 9,200rpm
Cycle Parts
Chassis : Aluminium Deltabox twin-spar
Suspension:
(Front) 43mm USD forks, fully adjustable
(Rear) rising-rate monoshock, fully adjustable
Brakes:
(Front) twin 310mm discs, 6 piston radial
(Rear) 220mm disc, single piston caliper
Wheels/Tyres:
Cast Aluminium / Pirelli Diablo Corsa
(Front) 120/70 17
(Rear) 190/50 17
Rake/Trail : 24 degree/102mm
Wheelbase: 1,415mm
Capacity: 18 liters (3.96gal)
Dry weight: 177kg (390lb)
It’s hard to believe Yamaha's R1 has been around for almost 10 years. It's changed plenty during that time, and the latest bike is so much different to the first fire breather that shook the market back in 1998. Indeed, you could say the only similarity between the two is the name. But it's the differences between this, and last year's models that we're examining here to discover whether the new bike is worth shelling out for.
On paper at least you'd say it must be. Lots of electronic engine trickery, such as fly-by-wire throttle and variable Length inlet trumpet, along with a change from a 20 back to a 16-valve head, help to influence the bike's revised engine character and extra power. New suspension, brakes and chassis geometry suggest it probably flies round corners better too.
But to see if the changes to the 2007 bike add up to any real advantage, Dave the 'Goat' and I went for some tow-flying along the Fosse Way, running up from Cirencester, to Leicester and the Midlands. It confirmed many things about the new model - it's a very fast, sorted and highly capable bit of kit that would be very hard to beat.
Damned wonderful
It had only been a few weeks since I'd enjoyed the Yam in Super Bike’s 1000s group test, and the thrill of riding it again made me a very happy chappie. Sometimes you have to wonder just how bike-builders can manage to make something so damned wonderful. And before I jumped on the 2006-spec bike, I'd almost made up my mind about the latest version's superiority. But though spec sheets say one thing with their definitive data, the feeling from your arse can sometimes tell a very different story. And I was reminded of that within a few minutes on the old bike.
It's only fair to point out at this stage that the older version of the bike we tried had led a very good Life - something we could vouch for with some authority as its history is very well known to us. It was nothing short of a fluke that the example we picked up from George White's new and huge showroom in Swindon turned out to be none other than our esteemed editor's Long term mount from last year.
The R1 he'd cherished and much modified during the course of 2006 has been pretty much returned to standard. But, and it's a very important but, a couple of changes he'd made turned out to make the old bike every bit as impressive as the new one - and significantly different to ride to a stock bike.
More power
First off, Kenny lowered the overall gearing of the bike by fitting a two-tooth larger rear sprocket. It's a very cheap and simple, yet highly effective mod, and one we often recommend to owners of a variety of different bikes to improve their general zip. In the case of the R1, it improved the way the bike accelerated quite significantly.
The new bike's engine has a bit more power everywhere. It it also has a couple of noticeable steps in its power curve. But the beauty of the older bike's lowered gearing is that it makes it zippier and much more of a top-gear bike than the new one.
Knocking it down a gear or two to overtake or to get going a bit feet more promptly, is needed far less often, making life all, the more relaxing. Combined with a slightly softer and less urgent drive, the newer engine doesn’t feel as strong below 4,000rpm, while the extra zip of the older bike was more than welcome on a regular basis. The old engine also felt rather smoother than the new motor.
"The new bike's engine has a bit more power everywhere, It also has a couple of significant steps in its power curve”
The older, 20-valve power plant has a more linear increase of power too, though whether you think this is an advantage may well depend on your preferences. For more civilised and well-mannered drive, the older motor gets the nod, but for a more exciting ride the sixteen-valver is the one to go for. Power steps at 8,000rpm and 11000rpm make the new engine feet as though it's got a lot more than the 15bhp extra that our dyno tests say it has. A midrange hike in torque makes the newer bike a lot more prone to wheelying. Again, whether that floats or sinks your boat is up to you. Personally, I liked the control offered by the old engine, but would admit that it wasn't quite as much fun to cane as the new 'un. Though it should be noted that both engines are blinders, generating huge speed in a jiff with a fair dose of usability chucked in for good measure.
Engine and gearbox
The R1's engine is very strong and reliable and faults with it are rare. As tong as the bike has a good service history, you should expect plenty of strong faithful service.
There was a recall for a problem with the throttle position sensor that resulted in the motor cutting out at tickover. The problem affects many bikes, but manifests itself infrequently. Check to see if there's a pop mark above the 'R' on the chassis number indicating the warranty work has been done. If not, see your dealer and he'll arrange for it to be sorted.
The EXUP valve should be OK as long as the bike has had a thorough PDI and been serviced regularly. Otherwise it's a matter of time before it begins to seize. Check for a whirring sound when the ignition is turned on to indicate it's revolving freely.
Clutches can slip if abused. But more common is clutch drag caused by the packing grease applied at the factory fouling the plates and preventing them sliding home fully. Cleaning out the clutch assembly will solve the issue - dealers are obliged to sort the problem if the bike's still under warranty.
The rear suspension linkage can sound squeaky if the grease has melted due to the proximity of the exhaust pipe. And the wiring harness that runs over the radiator can chafe through and cause the bike not to start. If you use the bike for track days, It will burn some oil. Check it regularly.
Service intervals are every 6000 miles with valves only needing checks every 24,000. Working on the bike at home is a bit fiddly and jobs such as changing the plugs and setting the balance of the throttle bodies shouldn't be tackled without good tools and mechanical knowledge.
Chassis
The overall condition is great guide to how well the bike’s been looked after. A year-old R1 that’s had a good life should be in nothing short of mint condition, and it would be unusual for its mileage to exceed 5,000.
Look carefully for crash, damage, broken bodywork and scuffed levers and footpegs are giveaways. The Yamaha is a fast bike bought by fast riders who crash occasionally, and by riders who think they’re fast but can be overwhelmed by the bike’s speed. A fair few Yamahas have been raced too. Check the tell-tale signs; drilled plugs, scratched wheel rims and mint, unused bodywork. Head races should also be checked for notchiness, and while you’re at it check the run-out of the front wheel. Repeated wheelies, especially botched ones, cause damage.
Brakes will bind if neglected, and lose their performance. If looked after, they should be sharp and strong. Genuine pads extend disc life
Meanwhile, a taller double bubble screen makes life at higher speeds more bearable.
Evenly matched
Another mod that drastically attered the way the older bike rode was the fitment of a set of Michelin Pilot Power 2CT tyres. They transformed the older bike's handling. That’s not to say there's anything wrong with the Pirelli Diablo Corsas fitted to the new bike - they offer an abundance of grip. But the sharper profile of the Michelins made the old bike feet much more flickable, giving the impression of a much racier chassis geometry. It almost made the fact that it's 4kgs lighter than the new bike (probably down to stricter emissions controls) noticeable. Without those tyres, the older model was always considered one of the more comfortable litre sports bikes, with its lower, softer seat and stable road handling.
The behaviour of the rest of the bike's chassis was more evenly matched. And though there are claimed and visually apparent differences with the 2007 bike's brakes and suspension, features such as the new R1's tighter and smatter discs gripped by six-piston radial calipers, and the rear shock's high and tow speed compression damping adjusters, didn't make as much of a difference. You may well be able to feet an improvement if you tested the bikes back-to-back on a track. But on the road, even riding in a spirited manner, it's hard to tell.
It's a similar story with the riding positions, though the new bike does place the rider into a little more of a sporty stance. This is thanks to a tatter seat height that actually makes the bike feel as though it’s got lower bars - which it hasn't. You can argue that more weight over the front will give a slight advantage in front end grip, although this will eventually be offset by a bit more pain in the wrists on a longer run.
"A midrange hike in torque makes the newer bike a lot more prone to wheelying”
Styling-wise, there’s little to choose from the pair. They're both great lookers with good build quality. They also have the instantly- identifiable R1 silhouette that few would argue is of an award-winning standard, capable of matching a lot of stuff from the accepted style kings, the Italians.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
This 2006 R1 hasn't really suffered too much in the way of abuse in its short life. These bikes are bought by a variety of people who usually don't do much more than 2-3000 miles a year and generally look after their bikes. They're popular so there are plenty to choose from. Bearing that in mind, you don't need to buy anything that hasn't been loved and cherished by its owner. Check over bikes you're interested in carefully, and most should still be covered by the manufacturer's warranty. It's a buyer's market.
THE FINAL ANALYSIS
As our test proves, the 'superiority' of the new R1 can be very much reduced by a few well-judged alterations to the older model. There's no doubt that the 2007 bike's engine has more power than last year's. Delivery isn't quite as strong right at the bottom, and the steps in the power won't be everyone's mug of PG. But we know from experience that with standard gearing the 2006 model suffered here too. By lowering the gearing of the old bike the motor is more usable, and gear changes become far less frequent. So if you're buying the 2007 bike, we recommend you do the same. The bottom line is both bikes are capable of propelling you along at some very serious speeds.
Handling-wise, the change to Pilot Power 2CT rubber on the older bike made a difference to the way it could be chucked about compared with the Pirelli-shod newer model. Most recent R1s are often softly sprung on standard settings, so adding a touch more rebound helps the bike handle the roads far better, whichever model. Elsewhere, the differences between the two bikes are harder to feet unless you take things nearer the limit. But it's safe to say that on the same rubber, you'll find the new bike slightly quicker steering and generally a tad less comfy over distances.
Of course, having the latest and greatest bike gives you better bragging rights down the boozer. As it is, buying a used 2006-spec model isn't a bad idea. Pick a good 'un and you'll be well chuffed, especially with the potential saving of between euro2,000 - 2,500 over a new one.
SPECIFICATION
2006 YZF-R1
Engine:
Type: I/c, 20v, 4 cylinder in-line DOHC
Displacement : 998cc
Bore x Stroke: 77x53.6mm
Compression: 11.8:1
Carburation: Mikuni EFI, 38mm throttle bodies
Gearbox: 6-speed, chain
Power: 147bhp@11,300rpm
Torque: 79lb ft @ 8,400rpm
Cycle Parts
Chassis : Aluminium Deltabox twin-spar
Suspension:
(Front) 43mm USD forks, fully adjustable
(Rear) rising-rate monoshock, fully adjustable
Brakes:
(Front) twin 320mm discs, 4 piston caliper
(Rear) 220mm disc, single piston caliper
Wheels/Tyres:
Cast Aluminium / Michelin Pilot Power 2CT
(Front) 120/70 17
(Rear) 190/50 17
Rake/Trail : 24 degree/97mm
Wheelbase: 1,395mm
Capacity: 18 liters (3.96gal)
Dry weight: 173kg (381lb)
2007 YZF-R1
Engine:
Type: I/c, 16v, 4 cylinder in-line DOHC
Displacement : 998cc
Bore x Stroke: 77x53.6mm
Compression: 12.7:1
Carburation: Mikuni EFI, 45mm throttle bodies
Gearbox: 6-speed, chain
Power: 162bhp@12,000rpm
Torque: 78lb ft @ 9,200rpm
Cycle Parts
Chassis : Aluminium Deltabox twin-spar
Suspension:
(Front) 43mm USD forks, fully adjustable
(Rear) rising-rate monoshock, fully adjustable
Brakes:
(Front) twin 310mm discs, 6 piston radial
(Rear) 220mm disc, single piston caliper
Wheels/Tyres:
Cast Aluminium / Pirelli Diablo Corsa
(Front) 120/70 17
(Rear) 190/50 17
Rake/Trail : 24 degree/102mm
Wheelbase: 1,415mm
Capacity: 18 liters (3.96gal)
Dry weight: 177kg (390lb)
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