10 PRECIOUS SECONDS

Not everyone can afford the insurance to jump to a sportsbike from 125, but good things still come in small packages. Half the costs can mean twice the fun.

Small bikes. Shite, aren't they? Simply a stepping stone to bigger, better things, then why is it that we remember smaller capacity machines with affection? Is it simply nostalgia and rose tinted visors? Or do they really offer more bangs for fewer bucks? It certainly seems that some manufacturers still see the smaller capacity classes are worth of looking at on the new bike front.

New lunches this season from BMW, Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha augment the updates to ol' perennials like the CB600F Hornet, FZ6, Fazer family and Kawasaki's fun ER-6 models. With this mind, we put our heads together to come up with the best, used snakk capacity 'second bikes' that will give you values from money smiles all year round.


1. KAWASAKI ER-6F/N

Proof that the parallel twin doesn't have to have 'Triumph' on the tank. One of sweetest bikes out there is the ER-6 family. You can rag these things and enjoy it just stick some money aside for some 'sorted' suspension (Hagon do some great fork internals and springs) and you can really enjoy this bike. After all, a 120mph top end and 70bhp are enough for most people, while being sufficiently user-friendly for newbies. Build quality is better than on most older Kawasaki too..

Other twins worth a look include the CB500, the bike that James Toseland cut his racing teeth on. Alternative sub-700cc Kawasakis include the venerable (and softly sprung) ZZ-R600 and the first couple of generations of pre-636 ZX-6R, which if looked after offer plenty of thrills from decade old technology.

Pros : A lot of bike for the money; good fun; cheap to run.

Cons: Look are a bit different on the 'n' with the 'f' being a lot more attractive. Can run out of puff when you get used to it.


2. HONDA HORNET (1998-2005)

'Cult' is an often-over-used word in biking cirles, but within a year or so its 1998 release, the Hornet became one. Like the 250/350LC before it, the Hornet became the darling of new riders, shorties and ladies alike, spawning a host of specials and aftermarket bits. The motor is a peaky 90bhp or so, compared to the Fazer's torquey 80-85bhp, but unless you go for the half faired 'S' you'll find that anything over 80mph will be a pain anyway. The chassis is capable. if budget, although the brakes could do with a bit more. Later version went to 17-inch front wheel and from 2003, sexy upside-down forks.

Pros: Plenty around; it's a cult bike

Cons: Not as well finished as many Hondas. Not very well equiped compared to the opposition. One trip, that's it....


3. YAMAHA FAZER 600 (1995-2004)

So good to bought one. As did Big Al. We're talking the Thundercat powered Fazer here, not the later buzzy R6 powered affair. You've got a perfectly carburated motor, awesome brakes from the early R1 (clean those calipers with regular winter use, mind) and lots of features you'd find on bigger bikes (two trips, fuel gauge, clock, hazzards, center-stand, underseat storage and decent pillion.) Performance is superb and it's a chassis that handles, albeit with soft, budget suspension. Looks were questionable, even back then, but they grow on you.

Pros.: Cheap and most definitely cheerful. Performance per money.

Cons: Can get tatty quickly; engine paint flakes; exhaust downpipes rot.


4. CAGIVA RAPTOR 650

Even as a second, smaller bike, you can do with a bit of exotica, yeah? Well, how's this then-the first incarnation of the Raptor 650 and V-Raptor for around 1,500 euro? Solid Suzuki motor in styling that's just that bit different. Some tasteful extras (along with industrial-strength WD-40) should see it look nice and stay nice. The motor is solid in this, but buy a good version and you'll have something fresher than a wet cow turd, with just as many flies sticking to it in summer. Lovely. Other machunes in this class to consider include Suzuki's excellent SV650 and Ducati Monster M620

Pros: Look good; just a little bit different

Cons: Finish is shite on some and plastics/metal bits can deteriorate quickly if not looked after.


5. SUZUKI DL650 V-STORM

Yes, it looks just like its dull big brother, but hold those horses. This is BRILLIANT bike. Did I really use caps then? OK sorry. But hear me out. This really does make for an excellent second bike and winter hack. The SV650 motor is well used in this machine and pulls the bulk well only the addition of luggage and a lardy pillion sees this thing wanting. Solo, there's plenty of go, with the motor re-tuned for around 60bhp, not the 70 or so of the original SV. It's the undisputed decathleteof this top 10, albeit a quite ugly one.

Pros: Lots of bike for the money; comfy; pretty good two-up

Cons: Smashed into and uprooted the gnarly ugly tree


6. HONDA RVF400 NC45

The RVF ages well (the oldest are around 13 years young now) but it needs to be looked after well on the servicing front. Sounds wonderful and has the mid-range of bikes, happy in the knowledge that, unlike most 400cc sports machines, many NC45 owners rarely adorn it with pointless baubles or Maltese Cross rear lights. Honourable mentions must be made of following: Kawasaki's ZXr400 still look fantastic and was around for so many years there's one for every budget. Watch out for ex-rookies 400 race bikes, mind. Honda's inline four CBR Baby-Blades are nice but not as well put together as the RVFs.

Pros: Stunning to look at; goes well; sound better.

Cons: Servicing costs; shagged shocks by now; hard to find a really good one; pricey, still....


7. APRILIA RS250 / SUZUKI RGV250 (1994-2004)

We know they're two different bikes, but they both share that lovely Suzuki 90-degree two stroke motor and are a nice way to own a smaller, second 'classic' stroke.

The 'Priller' was around from 1994 to 2004, so there's still some low-ish mileage ones out there. All models used a breathed on Suzuki RGV250 lump, producing around 52 real-world bhp. On the tacho, like builders, nothing much happens before seven and the real work us done by about eleven.

If you must have a RGV, then it's best to simply find the latest and last of the old 90-degree models you can, like the RGV250S or T and ignore the hideous shell suit graphic. The 1991 SP with black number boards is sought after, while the banana swing arm M and Ns are the "classic" ones to go for.

Pros: Beautiful, even the Suzuki. Persuade the other half that it's a "classic". A real slice of biking history.

Cons: Most are old now and ratty. And have imploded. Impractical as a second bike in many ways.


8. SUZUKI BANDIT 600 (1995-2004)

We had to have the original in here, didn't we? When realised back in 1995, the Bandit was cool and looked mean. Now it's almost the pipe and slippers machine of the naked middle weight pack but this makes it bargain, as you can pick one up for as little as 800 euro. Mechanically realiable, the only thing questionable about the earlier Bandits is the finish: engine paint flakes, frame welds can rot as can exhaust welds, downpipes, fasteners and every nut and bolt attached thereon. If you can find a well looked after one, nab it. Back in the day, the performance of Bandit was more than enough, but now the 600cc machine has been left behind. Still, for bugger-all money ain't to be sniffed at.

Pros: Thousand out there; cheap

Cons: Hard to find a good one; they rot; performance isn't as hot as the rest.


9. 404 ENDURO DS

A few years ago people were claiming that this here 'Dual Sport' was the best CCM ever. And it's still worth a look as a second bike. Why? Well, you'veeffectively got two bikes in one. Thanks to the two sets of wheels. Slot in the knobblies and you too can be as happy as pig in shit on Sundays, while it can commute you to work during the week with the smart looking road wheels. Motive power thankfully road wheels. Motive power thankfully comes from Suzuki's well proven DR-Z400 lump which gives a respectable 39bhp. The only problem was a constantly weak of battery.

Pros: Two bikes in one. Look better than DR-Z...

Cons: You need to look after it, the finish isn't the best (but better than older CCMz) and make sure you keep the battery on trickle charge.


10. HYOSUNG GT650 COMET

The GT650 Comet is essentially an SV650 from somewhere else. Kinda. The motor is built in Japan, sharing a very similar design to that of the SV650, although the two are not identical. The savingsyou're making by buying one of these comes from a lack of fule injection. Finish isn't quite on a par with a Japanese bike and it's just not cool to tell the girl in the nightclub that you own a Hyosung, is it? But look at the prices. Used, you can get a used GT650 Comet with under 10k on the clocks for under two grand. There's also a sportier 'R' version with full-fairing that actually looks quite nice.

Pros: Cheap new, cheap used

Cons: It isn't Japanese, it isn't Italian, it isn't British. It's Korean...

YAMAHA YZF-R1 2006 R1 v/s 2007 R1

It's come a long way baby in 10 years, but how does the latest Yamaha R1 rate against a year-old used model?

It’s hard to believe Yamaha's R1 has been around for almost 10 years. It's changed plenty during that time, and the latest bike is so much different to the first fire breather that shook the market back in 1998. Indeed, you could say the only similarity between the two is the name. But it's the differences between this, and last year's models that we're examining here to discover whether the new bike is worth shelling out for.

On paper at least you'd say it must be. Lots of electronic engine trickery, such as fly-by-wire throttle and variable Length inlet trumpet, along with a change from a 20 back to a 16-valve head, help to influence the bike's revised engine character and extra power. New suspension, brakes and chassis geometry suggest it probably flies round corners better too.

But to see if the changes to the 2007 bike add up to any real advantage, Dave the 'Goat' and I went for some tow-flying along the Fosse Way, running up from Cirencester, to Leicester and the Midlands. It confirmed many things about the new model - it's a very fast, sorted and highly capable bit of kit that would be very hard to beat.

Damned wonderful
It had only been a few weeks since I'd enjoyed the Yam in Super Bike’s 1000s group test, and the thrill of riding it again made me a very happy chappie. Sometimes you have to wonder just how bike-builders can manage to make something so damned wonderful. And before I jumped on the 2006-spec bike, I'd almost made up my mind about the latest version's superiority. But though spec sheets say one thing with their definitive data, the feeling from your arse can sometimes tell a very different story. And I was reminded of that within a few minutes on the old bike.

It's only fair to point out at this stage that the older version of the bike we tried had led a very good Life - something we could vouch for with some authority as its history is very well known to us. It was nothing short of a fluke that the example we picked up from George White's new and huge showroom in Swindon turned out to be none other than our esteemed editor's Long term mount from last year.

The R1 he'd cherished and much modified during the course of 2006 has been pretty much returned to standard. But, and it's a very important but, a couple of changes he'd made turned out to make the old bike every bit as impressive as the new one - and significantly different to ride to a stock bike.

More power
First off, Kenny lowered the overall gearing of the bike by fitting a two-tooth larger rear sprocket. It's a very cheap and simple, yet highly effective mod, and one we often recommend to owners of a variety of different bikes to improve their general zip. In the case of the R1, it improved the way the bike accelerated quite significantly.

The new bike's engine has a bit more power everywhere. It it also has a couple of noticeable steps in its power curve. But the beauty of the older bike's lowered gearing is that it makes it zippier and much more of a top-gear bike than the new one.

Knocking it down a gear or two to overtake or to get going a bit feet more promptly, is needed far less often, making life all, the more relaxing. Combined with a slightly softer and less urgent drive, the newer engine doesn’t feel as strong below 4,000rpm, while the extra zip of the older bike was more than welcome on a regular basis. The old engine also felt rather smoother than the new motor.

"The new bike's engine has a bit more power everywhere, It also has a couple of significant steps in its power curve”

The older, 20-valve power plant has a more linear increase of power too, though whether you think this is an advantage may well depend on your preferences. For more civilised and well-mannered drive, the older motor gets the nod, but for a more exciting ride the sixteen-valver is the one to go for. Power steps at 8,000rpm and 11000rpm make the new engine feet as though it's got a lot more than the 15bhp extra that our dyno tests say it has. A midrange hike in torque makes the newer bike a lot more prone to wheelying. Again, whether that floats or sinks your boat is up to you. Personally, I liked the control offered by the old engine, but would admit that it wasn't quite as much fun to cane as the new 'un. Though it should be noted that both engines are blinders, generating huge speed in a jiff with a fair dose of usability chucked in for good measure.



Engine and gearbox

The R1's engine is very strong and reliable and faults with it are rare. As tong as the bike has a good service history, you should expect plenty of strong faithful service.

There was a recall for a problem with the throttle position sensor that resulted in the motor cutting out at tickover. The problem affects many bikes, but manifests itself infrequently. Check to see if there's a pop mark above the 'R' on the chassis number indicating the warranty work has been done. If not, see your dealer and he'll arrange for it to be sorted.

The EXUP valve should be OK as long as the bike has had a thorough PDI and been serviced regularly. Otherwise it's a matter of time before it begins to seize. Check for a whirring sound when the ignition is turned on to indicate it's revolving freely.

Clutches can slip if abused. But more common is clutch drag caused by the packing grease applied at the factory fouling the plates and preventing them sliding home fully. Cleaning out the clutch assembly will solve the issue - dealers are obliged to sort the problem if the bike's still under warranty.

The rear suspension linkage can sound squeaky if the grease has melted due to the proximity of the exhaust pipe. And the wiring harness that runs over the radiator can chafe through and cause the bike not to start. If you use the bike for track days, It will burn some oil. Check it regularly.

Service intervals are every 6000 miles with valves only needing checks every 24,000. Working on the bike at home is a bit fiddly and jobs such as changing the plugs and setting the balance of the throttle bodies shouldn't be tackled without good tools and mechanical knowledge.


Chassis
The overall condition is great guide to how well the bike’s been looked after. A year-old R1 that’s had a good life should be in nothing short of mint condition, and it would be unusual for its mileage to exceed 5,000.

Look carefully for crash, damage, broken bodywork and scuffed levers and footpegs are giveaways. The Yamaha is a fast bike bought by fast riders who crash occasionally, and by riders who think they’re fast but can be overwhelmed by the bike’s speed. A fair few Yamahas have been raced too. Check the tell-tale signs; drilled plugs, scratched wheel rims and mint, unused bodywork. Head races should also be checked for notchiness, and while you’re at it check the run-out of the front wheel. Repeated wheelies, especially botched ones, cause damage.

Brakes will bind if neglected, and lose their performance. If looked after, they should be sharp and strong. Genuine pads extend disc life

Meanwhile, a taller double bubble screen makes life at higher speeds more bearable.


Evenly matched

Another mod that drastically attered the way the older bike rode was the fitment of a set of Michelin Pilot Power 2CT tyres. They transformed the older bike's handling. That’s not to say there's anything wrong with the Pirelli Diablo Corsas fitted to the new bike - they offer an abundance of grip. But the sharper profile of the Michelins made the old bike feet much more flickable, giving the impression of a much racier chassis geometry. It almost made the fact that it's 4kgs lighter than the new bike (probably down to stricter emissions controls) noticeable. Without those tyres, the older model was always considered one of the more comfortable litre sports bikes, with its lower, softer seat and stable road handling.

The behaviour of the rest of the bike's chassis was more evenly matched. And though there are claimed and visually apparent differences with the 2007 bike's brakes and suspension, features such as the new R1's tighter and smatter discs gripped by six-piston radial calipers, and the rear shock's high and tow speed compression damping adjusters, didn't make as much of a difference. You may well be able to feet an improvement if you tested the bikes back-to-back on a track. But on the road, even riding in a spirited manner, it's hard to tell.

It's a similar story with the riding positions, though the new bike does place the rider into a little more of a sporty stance. This is thanks to a tatter seat height that actually makes the bike feel as though it’s got lower bars - which it hasn't. You can argue that more weight over the front will give a slight advantage in front end grip, although this will eventually be offset by a bit more pain in the wrists on a longer run.

"A midrange hike in torque makes the newer bike a lot more prone to wheelying”

Styling-wise, there’s little to choose from the pair. They're both great lookers with good build quality. They also have the instantly- identifiable R1 silhouette that few would argue is of an award-winning standard, capable of matching a lot of stuff from the accepted style kings, the Italians.


WHAT TO LOOK FOR
This 2006 R1 hasn't really suffered too much in the way of abuse in its short life. These bikes are bought by a variety of people who usually don't do much more than 2-3000 miles a year and generally look after their bikes. They're popular so there are plenty to choose from. Bearing that in mind, you don't need to buy anything that hasn't been loved and cherished by its owner. Check over bikes you're interested in carefully, and most should still be covered by the manufacturer's warranty. It's a buyer's market.


THE FINAL ANALYSIS
As our test proves, the 'superiority' of the new R1 can be very much reduced by a few well-judged alterations to the older model. There's no doubt that the 2007 bike's engine has more power than last year's. Delivery isn't quite as strong right at the bottom, and the steps in the power won't be everyone's mug of PG. But we know from experience that with standard gearing the 2006 model suffered here too. By lowering the gearing of the old bike the motor is more usable, and gear changes become far less frequent. So if you're buying the 2007 bike, we recommend you do the same. The bottom line is both bikes are capable of propelling you along at some very serious speeds.

Handling-wise, the change to Pilot Power 2CT rubber on the older bike made a difference to the way it could be chucked about compared with the Pirelli-shod newer model. Most recent R1s are often softly sprung on standard settings, so adding a touch more rebound helps the bike handle the roads far better, whichever model. Elsewhere, the differences between the two bikes are harder to feet unless you take things nearer the limit. But it's safe to say that on the same rubber, you'll find the new bike slightly quicker steering and generally a tad less comfy over distances.

Of course, having the latest and greatest bike gives you better bragging rights down the boozer. As it is, buying a used 2006-spec model isn't a bad idea. Pick a good 'un and you'll be well chuffed, especially with the potential saving of between euro2,000 - 2,500 over a new one.



SPECIFICATION

2006 YZF-R1

Engine:
Type: I/c, 20v, 4 cylinder in-line DOHC
Displacement : 998cc
Bore x Stroke: 77x53.6mm
Compression: 11.8:1
Carburation: Mikuni EFI, 38mm throttle bodies
Gearbox: 6-speed, chain
Power: 147bhp@11,300rpm
Torque: 79lb ft @ 8,400rpm

Cycle Parts
Chassis : Aluminium Deltabox twin-spar
Suspension:
(Front) 43mm USD forks, fully adjustable
(Rear) rising-rate monoshock, fully adjustable
Brakes:
(Front) twin 320mm discs, 4 piston caliper
(Rear) 220mm disc, single piston caliper
Wheels/Tyres:
Cast Aluminium / Michelin Pilot Power 2CT
(Front) 120/70 17
(Rear) 190/50 17
Rake/Trail : 24 degree/97mm
Wheelbase: 1,395mm
Capacity: 18 liters (3.96gal)
Dry weight: 173kg (381lb)




2007 YZF-R1

Engine:
Type: I/c, 16v, 4 cylinder in-line DOHC
Displacement : 998cc
Bore x Stroke: 77x53.6mm
Compression: 12.7:1
Carburation: Mikuni EFI, 45mm throttle bodies
Gearbox: 6-speed, chain
Power: 162bhp@12,000rpm
Torque: 78lb ft @ 9,200rpm

Cycle Parts
Chassis : Aluminium Deltabox twin-spar
Suspension:
(Front) 43mm USD forks, fully adjustable
(Rear) rising-rate monoshock, fully adjustable
Brakes:
(Front) twin 310mm discs, 6 piston radial
(Rear) 220mm disc, single piston caliper
Wheels/Tyres:
Cast Aluminium / Pirelli Diablo Corsa
(Front) 120/70 17
(Rear) 190/50 17
Rake/Trail : 24 degree/102mm
Wheelbase: 1,415mm
Capacity: 18 liters (3.96gal)
Dry weight: 177kg (390lb)